André Vatan has been at the helm of this small family domaine in the Sancerre appellation since 1988, when his father unexpectedly passed away. He's had plenty of time to put his stamp on things since then, from the meticulously aligned vineyards to the carefully controlled yields to the tidy cellars where he makes his wines. All of this care and consideration has resulted in stunning Sancerres, like this Les Charmes. Most of the fruit is grown in silex, a flinty, limestone-free soil that gives the fruit powerful, exotic, perfumed character. But there's also a small proportion from fruit planted in limestone soils, which adds smokiness and complexity.